Skincare staple or expensive gimmick, do you really need an LED face mask?

Countless faddy products have crossed my desk over the years I’ve been reviewing beauty tech, from app-connected toothbrushes to AI-powered hair dryers. Few, however, have held such sustained interest as LED face masks.

At first glance, I assumed these scary-looking, space-age skincare devices would fizzle out of favour as quickly as they appeared. Instead, they’ve become a staple in some people’s skincare routines, including my own.

LED masks use a process called photobiomodulation (PBM), where different light wavelengths are used to trigger specific processes in the body, as light stimulates the mitochondria – the “powerhouses” responsible for generating energy – in our cells.

The first forms of light therapy used concentrated light to treat tuberculosis – and then, as its skin-rejuvenating properties were discovered, slowly evolved into the LED masks used today. “With consistent use, at-home LED therapy can lead to gradual, modest improvements in the skin, although results vary depending on the concern being treated,” says consultant dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips. “In general, LED works by supporting the skin’s natural repair processes. Red light can help reduce inflammation and stimulate collagen production over time, which may translate into subtly smoother, firmer-looking skin. Blue light, on the other hand, targets acne-causing bacteria and can help to reduce the frequency of breakouts in some people.”

When you put it like that, the tech sounds like a painless, risk-free miracle treatment – something that feels rare and desirable in an age dominated by plastic surgery and “tweakments”. It’s not surprising that people have found these claims hard to resist: “Sales for LED masks were up 102% year on year in 2025,” says Lauren Starkey, a senior buying manager at Lookfantastic. And it’s a trend that has shown no sign of slowing in 2026.

But with masks costing between £100 and £500, it’s sensible to question if you really need one, or if something more affordable or less time-consuming will have a bigger impact on your skin. You’ll also need to consider how often you’ll use it, as consistency is key to achieving results, and there’s no point buying gadgets only for them to gather dust in the corner.

Can good skincare give the same results as an LED mask?

“LED masks can be a useful addition, but they’re not a substitute for the basics,” says Phillips. “In most cases, your money is better spent getting the [skincare] fundamentals right first, and then considering devices as an add-on once that foundation is in place.”

I would add that my staunch commitment to skincare has bolstered the results of my LED mask use. I reach for my cleanser and moisturiser every evening, no matter how late it is or how many cocktails are coursing through my system. Admittedly, skincare isn’t always affordable, but Masters agrees that “topical actives often deliver stronger visible results per pound”.

“Topical skincare and LED therapy work in slightly different ways, but there is some overlap in what they are trying to achieve,” says Phillips. “LED light can penetrate into the skin to trigger cellular responses involved in repair and regeneration.” This process can’t be exactly replicated using creams and serums.

“Topical skincare tends to act more at the level of the epidermis,” says Phillips, but not all skincare is strictly surface level. “There are well-evidenced ingredients that can influence how skin cells behave,” he adds. Before you try an LED mask, he suggests looking into retinoids, vitamin C and peptides, since they’re “designed to signal to the skin in a similar way”.

As a rule, I’d recommend opting for a retinal serum at night for anti-ageing. I have used Medik8 Crystal retinal, which is available in various strengths, so you can start low and increase the dosage when your skin acclimatises (beauty writer Sali Hughes also recommends it). Peptides are a gentler alternative if you’re worried about the irritation retinoids can cause.

I love the Medik8 peptide cream and the Ordinary GF 15% serum. For spot-prone skin, invest in a product with salicylic acid. I keep a bottle of Paula’s Choice BHA 2% toner in my cupboard and use it sparingly as an on-the-spot treatment.

Don’t even think about buying an LED face mask for anti-ageing if you don’t wear daily SPF: that’s like trying to bail out water using a colander. Sun damage is a leading cause of premature skin ageing – not to mention the risk of skin cancer – and active ingredients make your skin more vulnerable to the sun’s rays.

I recommend the Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun SPF50 sunscreen, as it has a silky texture that belies its affordable price, and it sits brilliantly under makeup.

Before you jump in and raid the skincare aisle, try speaking with a dermatologist. This will arm you with tailored skincare recommendations, saving you from experimenting and wasting products and money.

When integrating any new actives into your routine, it’s best to exercise caution. Always start using each active once or twice a week for a few weeks, then gradually increase the frequency. Any irritation, stinging or burning is a sure-fire sign that you should stop treatment.