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Bespoke: Hidden meaning of the term used by fashion designers

12:22 PM
Bespoke: Hidden meaning of the term used by fashion designers
Bespoke suits displayed inside a tailoring workshop.

The word bespoke is commonly used in the fashion industry, particularly when describing suits and other clothing made to meet a client’s specific preferences.

However, while many people associate the term with expensive or customised clothing, its meaning goes deeper than simply having an outfit made to order.

Master tailor and entrepreneur Ashok Sunny, founder of Ashok Sunny Bespoke, in a candid interview with Jagero explained the history and meaning behind the term.

“Bespoke comes from the older days, 1800, when the tailors used to come in the house with a small machine they used to operate by hand, and then you tell them what you want to be made,” Ashok explained.

He said tailors would carry different fabrics with them, allowing clients to select the material they wanted for their outfits.

“They had fabrics, and you pick the one that you want, and when they go to the next house, they say, ‘This has been bespoken for,’ meaning someone has spoken for and you cannot take it,” he added.

According to Ashok, the term therefore came from the idea that something had already been specifically requested or “spoken for” by a particular client.

Master tailor and entrepreneur Ashok Sunny,
Master tailor and entrepreneur Ashok Sunny. PHOTO/https://www.facebook.com/sunny.guti

What makes a suit bespoke?

Ashok said the defining feature of bespoke clothing is the amount of handwork involved in making the garment.

“The basic concept of bespoke is that the suit is handmade,” he said.

He distinguished bespoke tailoring from custom-made clothing, noting that the two terms are sometimes used interchangeably despite having different meanings within the tailoring industry.

“We have custom-made and bespoke; custom-made is where everything is done by machine, while bespoke is where everything is done by hand,” Ashok said.

A bespoke suit is generally made around an individual client’s measurements and preferences, rather than simply selecting a standard size.

The process can involve taking detailed measurements, selecting fabrics, deciding on design elements and constructing the garment specifically for the wearer.

Bespoke suits displayed inside a tailoring workshop.
Bespoke suits displayed inside a tailoring workshop.

Why Kenyans associate bespoke with Bolo

In Kenya, the word bespoke has also become familiar to many people through fashion designer and tailor Austin Bolo, whose work has made the term prominent in local fashion conversations.

As a result, some people have mistakenly assumed that “Bespoke” is Bolo’s second name, rather than understanding it as a description of a particular approach to tailoring.

The term, however, is not a person’s name. It refers to clothing that is individually made according to a client’s requirements, with traditional bespoke tailoring placing a strong emphasis on hand craftsmanship.

For those seeking a bespoke suit, the process is therefore about more than simply choosing a stylish design. It involves creating a garment around the individual wearer, from measurements and fabric selection to construction and finishing.

Author

Valerian Khakayi

V.K.

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